long dried pasta such as linguine or spaghetti
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 heaped tablespoon butter (about 30 g)
125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine
250 g clams
zest of 1 lemon, plus the juice
a handful of parsley, roughly chopped
bottarga

Bring a large saucepan of water to a lively boil and season so it is as salty as the sea. Cook pasta until very al dente (we will finish it in sauce)

For the sauce, set a large frypan with high sides over medium heat. Add the olive oil, garlic, chilli and butter. Cook, swirling everything around, for about a minute, then reduce the heat. Pour in the wine and let it bubble away for about 3 minutes, or until reduced by half. Season lightly.

Add the clams and toss them through the sauce. Cover pan with lid and let them steam open for a few minutes. Some will open earlier than others - if any pop open quickly, I like to pluck them out into a bowl so they don’t overcook, then add them back in with the pasta. Discard any that haven’t opened after 5 minutes.

Using tongs, transfer the cooked pasta straight into the sauce with a splash of pasta water to bring it all together. Toss well so the pasta absorbs the sauce and finishes cooking. Add the lemon zest and parsley, toss again, then squeeze in lemon juice to your liking. Season, taste and adjust.

Serve with sauce spooned over the top, a generous grating of bottarga, and an extra drizzle of sauce - just to say I love you.