I start with an onion, cooked down in olive oil for about 5 minutes. You could pad it out with celery and carrot if you like. Then a few anchovies — I can’t help myself — but leave them out if they’re not your thing. Garlic and rosemary go in next, followed by a crumble of salumi I found at the back of the fridge. Pancetta, a lone sausage, bit of bacon — whatever’s hanging about. Or skip the meat altogether.

Once it all smells good, I stir in some tomato paste for depth. Then a handful of chickpeas, giving them a bit of a squish so they break up and thicken the broth (cannellini, borlotti or butter beans would all work too). Pour in stock and drop in a parmigiano rind if you’ve got one. Then the rest of the chickpeas and the pasta. Check seasoning and adjust.

Let it all simmer until the pasta is nearly done. Add a few handfuls of greens — silverbeet, spinach, kale, whatever you’ve got.

To finish, fry some garlic and rosemary in olive oil until crisp. Ladle the soup into bowls and spoon over the garlicky oil. Add lemon zest, a pinch of dried chilli, and a shower of cheese to bring it all home.