Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Once hot, add fennel seeds and cook for 30 seconds. Add pork, breaking it into small pieces with a wooden spoon. Fry for 6 minutes, then stir occasionally for another 5 minutes until browned and starting to crisp. Add garlic, 8 sage leaves, and one whole chilli (pierced a few times to allow a subtle heat to permeate). Fry for 2 minutes, then remove it all from the pan and set aside.

Add a splash more oil to the pan, then add celery and onion. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft but not coloured. Return the pork mixture to the pan with the wine. Simmer for 2 minutes. Pour in 400 mls of milk, stir, and reduce heat to the lowest setting. Cover with lid and simmer, stirring every 30 minutes, for 1 ½ hours. The milk will spilt; this is normal. This ragu is not about the look, but the taste. You’ll understand when you taste it.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small fry pan over medium-high heat. Add the remaining sage leaves and fry for 1 minute until crispy. Remove from heat and transfer leaves and oil to a bowl for garnish.

When the ragu is ready, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain the pasta.

Add the remaining 60 ml of milk to the ragu to bring the sauce together. Zest in 1 lemon and add the pasta, along with a splash of the reserved pasta water and a generous amount of cheese. Stir well. If needed, add more pasta water to adjust the consistency.

Serve the ragu in bowls, garnished with crispy sage leaves, a drizzle of sage oil, dried chili flakes (if using), and extra cheese. Serve immediately and thank me later.