This is my grandma’s Lemon Delicious pudding - or Dama, as I used to call her. I recently found the handwritten recipe in the little notebook I started when I was 10 years old. I can still picture myself perched on a stool beside our black granite kitchen bench as she taught me to gently fold fluffy egg whites into the sunny yellow batter. In the oven, it transformed into something magical: golden and puffed on top, with a soft, silky lemon curd hidden underneath.

Perhaps that’s where my lifelong love of double-textured puddings began. The bay leaves are my addition; I love the gentle savoury perfume they infuse through the pudding. A dusting of icing sugar and a generous spoonful of thick cream is all it needs.