Pumpkins might belong to autumn on paper, their orange flesh and tonal skins always looking the part, but I think it’s not until we hit the depths of winter that they really hit their stride. A pumpkin and agrodolce onion Tarte Tatin, a savoury take on the classic sweet French tart, though this sounds much fancier than it is. Really, this is just an upside-down tart made with cooked down onions and roast pumpkin (I used butternut), finished with a salty bite of feta. We’re even taking the shortcut of store-bought puff pastry (but I do recommend hunting out an all butter one. Agrodolce, the Italian version of sweet and sour, takes the place of the caramel that usually coats the apples in a traditional tarte Tatin. This dish started as a way to use up leftover roast pumpkin, but it was so delicious that I now roast pumpkin just for the occasion.